Frontenac State Park is located a mile or so off U.S. Highway 61 about 10 miles southeast of Red Wing, Minn., on the shores of Lake Pepin.
Millions of years ago, most of Minnesota was covered by shallow seas. At the bottom of these seas, sediment accumulated and slowly hardened into rock. This rock now makes up the bluffs along the Mississippi River in southeastern Minnesota's Driftless region.
Over the last million years, this ancient rock was shaped by the erosive power of water. Most of the landscape in the Frontenac area was carved out by the Glacial River Warren. This powerful river flowed from the south end of Glacial Lake Agassiz, a lake larger than all the Great Lakes combined, covering much of what is now northwestern Minnesota and extending into North Dakota and Canada.
Glacial River Warren cut the large valley through which the Minnesota River now flows. In what is now eastern Minnesota, it picked up increased force from the waters of the Upper Mississippi and St. Croix rivers and flowed southeast, sculpting the Mississippi River Valley. When the river was at its peak, most of what is now Frontenac was under water, and the park's central bluff was an island.
On the bluff below the park’s picnic area is a stone quarry, inactive for nearly 50 years. Time has softened the harshness of its vertical face, with flowers growing in its crevices. For 100 years, high-quality limestone from this and other quarries in the area was popular for building. In 1883, architects John LaFarge and George L. Heinz chose limestone from this quarry for use in the Cathedral of St. John the Divine in New York City.
But the history of human habitation of this area goes well back before European settlers. It was long the home of Indigenous peoples, most recently the Dakota.
In 1976, the Minnesota Historical Society excavated several archaeological sites. The Havana Ridge Site, which dates from 400 B.C., represents the northern edge of Hopewellian culture. Some sites in the park were habitation sites; others served as burial grounds. The Dakota and Fox people hunted and fished on the shores of Lake Pepin. In the park is a stretch of high ground covered by woods and meadows that was sacred to these Native peoples. Its focal point was In-Yan-Teopa, a giant rock perched on the edge of the bluff overlooking Lake Pepin.
In 1680, Father Louis Hennepin led the first European exploration along this section of the Mississippi River.
In 1727, an expedition left Montreal to set up a post in the land of the Dakota. From this post, explorers planned to go west in search of the best route to the Pacific Ocean. Rene Boucher and his men landed in the vicinity of the park on Sept. 17, 1727. Within four days, they had built a log stockade and named it Fort Beauharnois in honor of the Marquis de Beauharnois, governor general of New France (Canada). In the fort, two Jesuit missionaries, Michel Guignas and Nicholas de Gonnor established what may have been Minnesota’s first church, the Mission of St. Michael the Archangel.
In 1763, when the Treaty of Paris ended the Seven Years' War, Great Britain inherited France’s claim to much of North America. This led to the abandonment of Fort Beauharnois. Fieldwork has failed to uncover the exact location of the fort and chapel. All evidence of their location has vanished, possibly underwater.
The area's first permanent pioneer resident was fur trader James “Bully” Wells. By 1840, he had built a trading post and a home where Frontenac now stands. As the fur trade declined, logging increased. By the mid-1800s, most of the woodlands around the park had been cleared. Logging operations on the Upper Mississippi, St. Croix and Chippewa rivers sent huge log rafts down the Mississippi to sawmills.
In 1854, Israel Garrard, who would soon serve as a general in the Union Army, came to Frontenac to hunt. He fell in love with the region and decided to make his home here.
Three years later, Evert Westervelt, a Dutch immigrant who had bought out the interests of Bully Wells, and Garrard platted out a 320-acre town. Originally, it was named Westervelt, but in 1859, when Garrard bought out Westervelt, he changed the name to Frontenac in honor of Comte de Pallusa et de Frontenac, who served as governor of New France from 1671 to 1698 and was responsible for many early exploration expeditions.
Israel Garrard recruited laborers, and within a short time Frontenac was under construction. The Civil War interrupted the town’s development. After the war, Garrard returned, bringing with him skilled craftsmen from the South. They worked in the sawmill and the quarry and built the town’s many buildings, including St. Hubert’s Lodge (Israel Garrard’s home, named in honor of the patron saint of hunters, now the home of Jeff and Ann Bolin), the Lake Side Hotel (a three-story, white framed structure with a double porch that no longer stands), and Christ Episcopal Church (which has been lovingly maintained and still has services every Sunday).
In the 1870s and 1880s, Frontenac was in its heyday. During the steamboat era following the Civil War, it became one of the most fashionable summer resorts in the country. High society from New Orleans, St. Louis and St. Paul came to stay at the Lake Side Hotel and to relish the peace and charm of Frontenac.
In 1870, the railroad came to southeastern Minnesota. As railroad traffic increased, steamboat travel decreased. Many towns up and down the river had hoped to become important trade centers, but as the use of the river waned, so did the importance of the river towns. Old Frontenac would largely stand still in time. Today, the village, which lies just down the bluff from Frontenac State Park, is a nationally registered Historic District and remains a nostalgic reminder of Minnesota’s past.
The park The history of the park dates back to 1935, when the National Park Service pointed out the potential of the area. Early attempts to establish a park failed.
In 1954, a group of citizens formed the Frontenac State Park Association. They believed the area should be set aside to preserve its natural beauty and historical significance. In 1955, a bill was introduced in the Minnesota Legislature to do just that, but because of funding priorities, it was not passed. When an important tract of land was put up for sale, the Frontenac State Park Association raised money for its purchase. Spurred by the commitment of local people, the 1957 Legislature established Frontenac State Park.
A timeline
1935 Point Au Sabel, known locally as Long Point, and adjacent area recommended for consideration as a park by the National Park Service.
1954 Citizens from Red Wing, Lake City, Wabasha and Rochester form the Frontenac State Park Association (FSPA). Albert Marshall serves as temporary chair of the group, with Art Lillyblad as secretary-treasurer. The group meets with state park officials, and plans are set in motion to push for a state park.
1955 State Rep. Clarence Langley and Sen. Grover George introduce a bill in the Legislature to establish Frontenac State Park on about 412 acres in the Point Au Sable area. The bill fails, largely because legislatures at the time held the view that local residents should pay part of the cost of the initial land acquisition.
1956 The Frontenac State Park Association grows to 174 members under the leadership of W.A. Swenson, of Lake City, as president and Albert Marshall, of Red Wing, as treasurer. The group raises a down payment to purchase a 160-acre parcel of land under a contract for deed.
1957 Langley and George re-introduce their bill to establish Frontenac State Park. The FSPA lobbies for passage of the bill, showing its support in the form of purchased parcels and a significant gift of land from John Hauschild. After much political haggling, the bill passes and Frontenac State Park is born. The original bill had a caveat in it that any development in the park would be restricted to footpaths.
1961 The Legislature approves adding some acreage to the park and amends the original 1957 legislation, removing the restrictions on development in the park.
1965 A second addition to the park boundary is approved by the Legislature. Despite some local opposition, a paved road is built to the top of the bluff, opening up the area for the development of park facilities.
1966 A well is drilled up on the bluff top and a picnic area is developed with a shelter building and modern restrooms. 33,000 trees are planted, with another 40,000 slated for planting.
1969 A third addition to the park is approved. A modern restroom building with showers is constructed in the campground.
1971 Legislature approves a fourth addition to the park boundary.
1979 State park planners complete a park management plan for Frontenac State Park after two years of study and input from the public. Several suggested actions are contained in the plan, not all of which are well received by area citizens.
1986 One of the 1979 park management plan's recommendations to change the focus of the park by adjusting its boundaries is passed by the Legislature. The adjustment removes approximately 900 acres of privately owned land south of Hill Avenue from the boundary and adds about the same amount of privately owned land north of Hill Avenue to extend the park west to Wacouta.
1987 The park celebrates its 30th birthday.
1990 A 22' x 30' building is moved into the park near the main entrance off Goodhue County Road 2 and is remodeled for use as a park office/contact station. It replaces the 10' x 14' building that had served as the contact station for years.
1991 The first major prairie restoration project is completed in the park, with 25 acres along County Road 2 seeded with prairie grasses and forbs. The project receives a $1,000 grant from the Frontenac Sportsman's Club.
1996 A new maintenance shop is built near the park office.
1997 The park celebrates its 40th anniversary. FSPA sponsors major events, including a classic car caravan and dedication of the new Hauschild Memorial in the picnic area. A large new sign is erected at the park entrance.
2006 The Legislature approves an 87-acre addition to the park. The addition brings the total acreage within the boundary to 2,899. Publicly owned acres within park boundaries stand at 2,250.
2017 Parks & Trails Council buys an old buffalo farm adjacent to the park that has been extensively cleaned up by new owners Robert Schroeder and Mary Walters. The land includes a panoramic overlook to the southwest on what has traditionally been called Waconia Cliffs.
2020 State Rep. Barb Haley and Sen. Mike Goggin help facilitate expansion of the park's legally authorized boundaries to allow it to buy the Waconia Cliffs land. The sale, completed on June 26, adds 159 acres to the park.
2022New shower building opens in campground. Frontenac State Park celebrates its 65th anniversary, with much of the planning and work provided by FSPA volunteers.